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In 2010 he was the first designer to show his collection at the opera house and he has often credited Jørn Utzon’s sails as inspiration. And so it is again this year, with a collection on Sunday night echoing the abrupt angles, sculptural curves and fine mosaics of the sails that provided such a worthy backdrop. There were other familiar touchstones to the resort collection: sharply cut shirts and suiting, echoes of activewear and understated but sensual evening gowns. Yet there were also plenty of new notes to please the expectant audience of international fashion buyers, media and local celebrities. Models during the finale of Dion Lee’s show. Photograph: Jonny Weeks for the Guardian Known for his neutral palette, Lee’s new collection included shades of candy red, electric blues and an acid yellow mixed in with the blacks and white. While there was little time for close inspection as the models stomped past, the fabric textures were intriguing with laser-cut detailing, embellished netting, double face Swiss lace and yards of ribboning adorning the silky gowns. Lee even had fun refashioning the archetypal Aussie Akubra, slicing it and making it his own. This is the second year that Australian fashion week has focused on trans-seasonal collections, a move away from the traditional showing of spring/summer collections at a time when the rest of the fashion world is thinking about autumn/winter. Hair and makeup backstage at the Opera House Photograph: Jonny Weeks for the Guardian Indeed Lee got that brief down pat, with this collection covering all the bases. Aside from the workwear and the eveningwear, there were anoraks, silk tracksuits and even a ruby coloured one-piece swimsuit for those days when the weather suddenly turns peachy.

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